Tucked away in the north-eastern corner of the
island, Amlwch is overshadowed by Mynydd Parys
(Parys mountain) to the south, and in a way this
is how it should be, for its history has been
bound up with the mountain since the Bronze Age.
Amlwch was entirely dependent for its prosperity
on the copper mines, for most of its inhabitants
had some concern in them, either as miners or
agents.As the town grew, so did the importance
of its port. The harbour became a bustling place,
where not only copper ore was shipped, but there
was brisk trade from vessels known as 'flats',
bringing in barm bought by the local brewery from
Thomas Greenall, the famous Lancashire brewers.
At the end of the 18th Century, Amlwch had over
60 ale houses.
It was copper from Mynydd Parys (Parys Mountain)
which created the demand for building the Port
of Amlwch, and although the site is narrow and
very open
to northerly winds, the standard of the original
building work on the quays of the port at the
end of the eighteenth century was very high, as
anyone can see by looking closely at it today.
Robert Roberts, "Y Sgolor Mawr" ("The
Great Scholar"), gives an evocative description
of the port in the Fifties of the last century
:
"a busy port, full of
ships, and the smell of sulphuric smoke from the
smelting works; numerous public houses around
the port, and seamen, shipwrights and hobblers
drinking Amlwch Brewery beer (or Greenalls, the
company from St.Helens which has been there since
1786), and chewing Amlwch shag tobacco and at
least seven pugilistic encounters in the street
between old Mrs. Roos' pub and Roberts' lodging
house".
Ship building yards were developed on both sides
of the port - "Iard Ochr Draw" ("Yard
on the other side") and "Y Iard Newydd"
("The New Yard") to the people of Amlwch.
It was here that the Treweek family, the Cox Paynter
Company and Captain William Thomas built ships
- wooden and iron sailing ships and a few small
steamers. There were close links between Amlwch
and the Millom Iron works in Cumbria, and a number
of Captain Thomas' workers moved out there to
build ships, and established a Welsh Chapel. The
shape and design of those Amlwch built ships were
more like those of North-West England than the
ships of Porthmadog, although the last iron schooners
from Amlwch were similar to the last wooden schooners
of Porthmadog. Both deserved the high praise given
to them by contemporary seamen, and maritime historians.
Today in a few ports on this coast, vast acres
of docks crammed with shipping, bear witness to
a long and profitable career for shipowners and
merchants : "elsewhere
only the ruins of a quay, an overgrown limekiln,
rusting chains and rotting bollards bear witness
to a once active commercial life, forgotten men
and vanished ships" - Susan Campbell-Jones,
'Welsh Sail' 1976
In the above photograph, the copper ore hoppers
and warehouses on the right are already in ruins,
and so are many of the houses once occupied by
the shipwrights, hobblers and porters.
Three schooners are alongside the quays, approached
rather precariously by a couple of planks and
a ladder, and securely moored at bow and stern
by ropes stretching the whole width of the harbour.
"The Vessel in the centre
is the schooner Alice & Eliza built at Lancaster."
Susan Campbell-Jones, 'Welsh Sail' 1976